Chartogne Taillet Cuvee St. Anne Brut NV (RP92)

The latest installment of one of my favorite “intro-level” Champagnes, the Chartogne-Taillet NV Brut Cuvee Ste.-Anne Disg. 6/2013 pushes the qualitative element even beyond what I recall under this label from two or three years ago, and must be counted (relative to its appellation) as a sensational value. A haunting nose of ocean spray with clam and oyster liquor anticipates the mouthwateringly saline, mysteriously meaty and seaweed-tinged aspects of a polished palate that’s also informed by luscious, pit-tinged white peach, fresh lemon and almond. (And were it not for that last trio, here would surely be one of those wondrous instances where you find yourself asking how a wine’s flavors can possibly come from grapes!) Ultra-juicy and palate- as well as saliva gland-massaging, the finish here left me licking my lips in anticipation of the next sip. What’s more, this cuvee is among the most versatile at table of any in Champagne. Feel free to follow the current disgorgement for 2-3 years. The blend, by the way, is 60-40 Chardonnay-Pinot and features vintage 2010 with 40% from 2009 and 2008.