Francoise Bedel Cuvee Entre Ciel et Terre Brut NV (RP93)

Exhibit A in the case for Bedel and her obscure terroir must be a NV Brut Entre Ciel et Terre, which places Meunier in something more like its usual supporting role, letting Chardonnay and Pinot step forward. Jasmine, green tea, lime, grapefruit, and white currant inform a brightly penetrating yet subtly perfumed nose, whose elements are joined on a palpably lees-enriched yet vivacious and consummately refreshing palate by nut oils, smoky toasted grain and saliva-liberating salinity. A subtle sense of textural oiliness reinforces the nut and citrus oil aspects but without deflecting any of this wine’s effusive juiciness or dimming the invigorating tang incorporated in a mouthwateringly long finish tinged with iodine. I suspect this will merit following for at least another 4-5 years.